Setting up base camp in the Transantarctic Mountains

Beardmore Remote Camp
December 7, 2003

Molly Miller in Antarctica
 
On Monday, November 17, Nichole Knepprath and I left McMurdo Station, the main U.S. base in Antarctica, and flew in a C-130 Hercules plane to the Beardmore Glacier area in the Transantarctic Mountains. The C-130 is a fat, low-slung airplane used by the Air National Guard. It is designed to carry cargo efficiently, so there are few amenities for human passengers. We could barely squeeze into the webbed seats because the piles of boxes containing our gear – tents, food, stoves, geology hammers and picks, computers, etc. –
 
Molly Miller investigating rocks on Mt. Bowers
were jammed in so tightly. The C-130 is equipped with skis, so the landing on the snow at the Beardmore Camp was smoother than many landings at American airports.

Once at the Beardmore Camp, half of our party set about putting up tents while the other half took a reconnaissance flight in a small Twin Otter aircraft to identify an area where we could work effectively for the next six days. (The same small plane has been used in recent
Twin Otter aircraft

Courtesy of NSF
years to evacuate people taken ill at the South Pole during the winter.) The area we chose was Mt. Bowers, located about 100 miles away, where ice of the Polar Plateau squeezes into the Beardmore Glacier. The pilot was concerned that the snow was too hard for the plane to land. To test the snow consistency our pilot flew low, gently touched the snow surface, and quickly took off. Fortunately, the snow was not hard enough to damage the plane.

 
Molly Miller leaving her Scott tent at Mt. Bowers. Tents of this design were originally used by Robert Scott on his failed expedition to the South Pole in 1912. Many experts feel that the Scott tent can withstand higher winds than any other design.
Mt. Bowers: The next day the Twin Otter ferried the six members of the Vanderbilt–University of Wisconsin–Milwaukee team and our cargo to Mt. Bowers, where we spent the rest of the day erecting tents. Tents must be attached securely to the snow with strong bamboo poles and snow must be piled up along the sides to insure that they do not blow away. At Mt. Bowers the snow was too hard to dig with a shovel so I put heavy bags full of survival equipment on the flaps at the edge to hold it down. We stayed at Mt. Bowers six days. We found some interesting things in the rocks. In addition, the stay was a true introduction to Antarctica for rookie team members.
Two party members, lower left, examining rocks exposed at Wahl Glacier. Note ice falls in the distance.
 

Beardmore Camp and Wahl Glacier: We returned to the Beardmore Camp on November 24 and again set up our tents. Since then we have been making day trips via snowmobile to Wahl Glacier, where ice cascading over and between mountains creates spectacular scenery

 
Travel by snowmobile to Wahl Glacier. The snowmobile is roped to the sled and snowmobile in front of it, and the person is roped to both.

The trip to Wahl Glacier is more than 26 kilometers (15 miles) of irregular snow and ice. Traveling is particularly tricky because the snowmobiles, sleds and people are roped together so drivers must be very careful driving.

The purpose of the roping is to minimize injury and damage should a snowmobile break through a snow bridge and fall into a crevasse. Mountaineer Tim Cully discovered a number of crevasses near the Beardmore Camp. Although they appear to be covered by strong snow bridges, the precaution is worth the inconvenience because none of us relishes the thought of falling into a crevasse, particularly while on a snowmobile.

The weather: Mt. Bowers' position near the Polar Plateau makes it susceptible to strong katabatic winds. While we were there, the temperature was -25 degrees Fahrenheit (F) or lower with winds of about 25 mph that created wind chill factors of about -80 degrees F. We noticed each others' faces getting white from frost bite and made sure that we warmed those spots. At Beardmore Camp and Wahl Glacier, by contrast, temperatures have been high (0 to 10 degrees F) and the winds light. It feels almost balmy!
LEFT: Fossilized trails and burrows made by animals moving in the sediment at the bottom of a lake approximately 280 million years ago. RIGHT: Complex ripple marks made by water current moving toward the top of photo
What we have found: In the oldest rocks exposed at Mt Bowers we were able to use the marks left by animals moving in the lake sediment to identify both the environment that the animals preferred and the processes that filled the lake with sediment. Animal trails and burrows are most abundant in the shales that were deposited in the quietest water.
Trackway produced by the appendages of an ancient animal digging into the sediment as it moved along a stream bottom or nearby floodplain. Miller found the trackway in a block of sandstone on Mt. Bowers.
 


The animals preferred the environment with the least current activity. With time, the currents brought in more and more sand, recorded in ripple marks that reflect strong current activity. Eventually the lake filled with sediment from the rivers that emptied into it.

Our biggest surprise at Mt. Bowers was finding a fossil trackway made by an animal moving near the margin of an ancient stream 250 million years ago.

This type of fossil has never been found in rocks of this age in Antarctica. It is not clear whether the producing animal was a reptile or whether it was an arthropod. However, the absence of obvious “toes” makes it more likely that it was an arthropod similar to a crustacean.


LEFT: Vanderbilt geology graduate student Nichole Knepprat enjoying the fine weather on the snowmobile trip to Wahl Glacier. RIGHT: Sequence of rocks containing ancient plants and paleo “soils” that existed 240 million years ago just before the largest mass extinction ever recorded that caused the demise of an estimated 90 percent of marine species.

Rocks at the Wahl Glacier show more evidence of plant life than animal life. The distribution of the plant fossils within the strata is of particular interest to Nichole Knepprath, who is doing her master's thesis research on the Antarctic record of the world wide disappearance of coal about 240 million years ago. She is documenting the distribution of plant material in layers exposed at Wahl Glacier and finding that plants were abundant close to the time that coals were no longer being formed
Miller and colleagues relaxing over a meal in the cook tent.
Starting December 1, two helicopters will begin operating out of the Beardmore Camp. They will greatly enhance our ability to get to exposures of different rock units. Stayed tuned for what we find
 
 
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